May 2015 – David Spencer Casual Footwear

You can’t tell the players without a program!

What’s Inside a Shoe?

Have you ever wondered what makes a shoe and what all the terms a manufacturer or cobbler use mean? I found this helpful terminology article that the blogger Old Shoe Leather put together as very helpful in understanding all that goes in making a pair of shoes.

Next time you receive a new pair of David Spencer or Buffalo Jackson shoes pull out this guide and take a walkthrough your new pair. A little knowledge goes a long way!

Terminology

Arch:: The padded area of the insole of a shoe, which is designed to support the arch of the foot.

Back Seam:: The vertical seam used to attach the quarters together at the center of the rear of a shoe.

Back Stay:: A short strip of leather that connects the quarters down the back of the shoe.

Collar:: A, sometimes padded, strip of material attached to the topline/opening of a shoe.

Counter:: A stiff piece of material usually made of leather, plastic, cardboard, or other stiff but plyable material that is inserted between the shoe lining and the upper located at the rear of the shoe, just above the heel.
The counter is used to strengthen the rear of the shoe and support the rear heel of the foot. It also helps retain the shape of the shoe. A Heel Counter can also refer to the exterior decoration on the back of a shoe (similar to a toe cap)

Eyelets:: Holes in the upper, above the tongue, where shoe laces are laces. Eyelets may be reinforced with a grommet for less wear on the shoe material. As a side note: The plastic tips on shoe strings are called Aglets.

Facing:: The part of the shoe where the shoelace eyelets are located.

Foxing:: A piece of leather trimming fitted into or on top of the rear quarters.

Gore:: An elastic panel attached to each side of the vamp to make a shoe more comfortable and easier to put on and take off. A Hidden Gore is covered by the tongue of a shoe and provides added comfort.

Heel:: The heel of a shoe, which raises the rear of the shoe, is considered part of the sole of a shoe although is is normally an independent piece of material. There are also names for the various areas of a heel:

Heel Breast:The area of the heel that faces the front of a shoe, typically located below the rear arch area of the foot.

Heel Seat:The area of the heel that is attached to the sole of a shoe.

Heel Tip:Used to refer to the Top Piece of a narrow, high heeled shoe (such as a Stiletto). Heel Tips are usually made of plastic or rubber.

Top Piece:The area of the heel that contacts the ground. When a shoe is manufactured the heel is attached to the shoe while the shoe is upsidedown, therefore the “bottom” of the heel, when a shoe is placed on a foot, is the “top” when it is being manufactured.

Inseam:: A hidden seam on a shoe attaching the welt, upper, lining and insole.

Insole:: The layer of material that lays on top of the sole inside a shoe, where the bottom of your foot contacts a shoe.

Linings:: A material, usually leather, sheepskin or cloth, that covers the inside of the upper to make a shoe more comfortable.

Mid-sole:: A layer of cushioned material between the innersole and outsole, adding additonal comfort and support to a shoe.

Outsole:: The part of the sole that touches the ground, usually made of leather or rubber.

Plug:: The sewn in vamp on a loafer. Usually defined as a plug if the material or texture is different than the rest of the shoe.

Puff:: Reinforcement inside the upper at the toe of a shoe to give it shape and support.

Quarter:: The back half of the upper. Attached at the front to the vamp, making up both sides of a shoe, and wrapping around the rear of the shoe. On some shoes the vamp and the quarter are a single piece of leather.

Shank:: A rigid material (usually metal or plastic) located between the insole and the sole of the shoe to supply support.

Sole:: The part of the shoe that sits below the wearers foot. The upper and sole make up the entire shoe.

Throat:: The area of the shoe where the top cap ends, or the area where the base of the tongue is attached to the vamp.

Toe cap:: A piece of material that covers the front upper of the shoe. Toe caps can have decorative patterns and shapes, to include wingtip.

Tongue:: A piece of material, usually leather or cloth, sewn into the vamp of a laced shoe, extending between the throat and the waist of a shoe.

Topline:: Also refered to as the Rim or the Collar, it is the top edge of the upper or opening of a shoe.

Upper:: The part of a shoe that covers the entire top, sides and back of the foot.

Vamp:: The part of upper that covers the front of the foot and attaches to the quarter.

Waist:: The area of a shoe between the in-step and arch.

Welt:: The piece of material, or process, used to join the upper to the sole. When the upper and the sole are stiched together, resulting in a visible stiched seam it is referred to as a Goodyear Welt or Norwegian Welt [two different processes] (as opposed to a Blake stitch which is not visible from the top of the shoe).

www.davidspenceronline.com

Toronto’s Bata Shoe Museum To Host ‘Men In Heels’ Exhibit

How many men are willing to admit they wore platform shoes in the 70’s?

Driving Moccasins – a chip off the old block

Driving mocs, driving shoes or drivers, are updated interpretations of the original moccasins worn by Native Indian tribes of North America.

The history of moccasins show there were two primary variations – a hard sole worn by plains Indians featuring layers of bison leather to protect the wearer from the harsh conditions of the desert and prairie, and the soft sole consisting of one layer of tanned leather and worn mostly by the eastern tribes as the soft, needle covered forests did not require as much protection to the wearer. Moccasins became popular with the early settlers and eventually found there way to Europe where they became a casual fashion item.

In recent years there has been a resurgence of popularity of moccasins in the form of driving mocs. These casual shoes are hand sewn in the manner of traditional Indian moccasins but have knobby rubber soles that provide protection and traction and prevent the leather from wearing off the heel as the driver braces the heel of the shoe on the floor board of the car to accelerate or change gears. The original “driving moccasin” was developed by the Drive Car company of Italy in 1906 and became instantly popular with race car drivers and sports car enthusiasts. They have since become a very popular shoe – particularly in the summer – many worn without socks – and come in a variety of colors and hides. The David Spencer drivers are made of tanned leather and feature different design elements. The Buffalo Jackson driver is unique in that the leather is genuine bison from the North American plains.

The David Spencer and Buffalo Jackson drivers are hand-sewn on the last. The uppers are soaked in water and positioned on the last. The plug and vamp are hand- sewn together while sill wet. The shoe is dried and in the process the leather fibers retain the permanent shape of the last. Stitches on the moccasin are pulled tightly for the detailing.

David Spencer Casual Footwear

Forever Preppy – A History of the Saddle Oxford

The History of the Saddle Oxford.

As best we can determine, the “saddle oxford” or “saddle shoe” was first introduced by the Spalding Company in 1906. The original version was used for women’s gym classes. It had soft white leather and a black leather mid panel (shaped somewhat like a horse’s saddle). It also had a matching black leather stripe that ran down the back of the shoe. The originals were made with white leather soles. The contrasting saddle itself was decorative and sporty but also was engineered to provide support for the arch and instep. Soon the shoe was being built with a red rubber sole for greater cushion and comfort and being used for a variety of sports and activities such as cheerleading, tennis and golf. When the Lindy Hop/Jitterbug craze came into popularity it became the shoe of choice for dancers and soon crossed over to the boys and worn with chino’s, denim and dress clothing.

Modern versions can be hard to find but with some searching can come in every possible material and color combination and might again become the shoe of choice for the well-dressed “preppy”